Of course, comparing the use of Harap Alb imagery—more of an insider tale—to flaunting Dracula feels a bit tacky. But I'd still buy these wines even if the label showed Dan in a căciulă or they sold them with mărțișori. It's a pity so many of my friends fear robust, powerful reds like the plague.

Anyway, I find this wine pretty wonderful: mulberry, blueberry, pine, liquorice, chocolate, bay leaf, and cola are all on display. The palate does struggle with sheer power, oak, and youth, and I'd love a touch more acidity to keep it in balance. The fruit isn't especially fresh either, yet I can't deny it's tasty—those herbal, vaguely medicinal layers remind me of a stash of sweet cough potions, chocolate, smoke, cola, and a dab of black cherry jam. It's not a masterpiece, but it's complex and quite enjoyable in its own way.